Monday, February 6, 2017

10:34 AM

fyi:  if you click on the pictures a window with large pictures will open up.

I am making a series of tilted blocks for my SKYFALL NINE quilt.   I thought I would post some of the things I learned about making this block.  This can be applied to any tilt block.  This is a left tilt block… I will post a right tilt block soon, but right now I am chaining left tilt blocks.







I am tilting my 3.5 in NINE PATCH BLOCKS.  The pattern said to make my wedges from a patch 2 inch by 5-3/4 inch rectangle.   I found it easier and much more efficient in the long run to make my rectangles 2 inch by 6 inches.  That resulted in more fabric on the pointed end, resulting  in a block that is nicer to square. YES, there is some waste but I thought it was worth it for the easier sewing and nice resulting block.


I found in general having made other tilt blocks that the rectangles should be at a minimum 3 inches larger than your finished block you are sewing your wedges too.  The NINE patch is 3 inch finished therefore my rectangle worked best when it was 6 inches.


YOUR rectangle is cut on the diagonal to form your tilting frame.  The way the wedges are cut controls the tilt of the blocks. For this LEFT TILT rectangle from the lower left side to the upper right corner of the rectangle.

For a RIGHT TILT  blocks cut your diagonal from the left upper corner to the lower right corner of the rectangle.  The blocks are assembled pretty much the same.



You need to cut two rectangles for each tilt block.  Be sure the fabric rectangles are right face up and you can layer one fabric over the other, cutting the fabrics at the same time.   I tried cutting the rectangles with my fabric back sides together but that did not work as the rectangles were mirrored and had to be put aside.






I found that by making a map of the block layout was helpful to speed up my sewing.  I just grabbed the pieces I needed in order.  Not having to figure out how each patch was sewn to the nine patch help keep things in order and avoided mistakes.







Taking  wedge “A” flip it so it is ready to sew.  THE right angle should be placed on the mid- point of the patch you are sewing your wedge too.  The slanted portion of the wedge is aligned to the upper portion of the NINE PATCH.  You then sew the wedge to the nine patch.  I sewed the patches so that I could keep the seams from flipping on the nine patch. 








Aligning the right corner of the wedge to the mid- point of the patch is done in every step to align the wedges to the nine patch and form the tilt in the block.  Repeat this process with wedges B, C, and D.







Once all the wedges are sewn to the NINE PATCH.  The block needs to be squared up to the correct size.   I did this in a two- step square up … first getting the misaligned fabric removed … then square up the block to the  correct size ( 4.5 inches.)  IT IS IMPORTANT to maintain quarter inch off of the corners of the nine patch, but you can tilt the ruler a little to get a slightly varied tilt.  This was really evident when I increased the size of the rectangle the wedges were made from to 6 inches.  Doing that allowed for easier squaring of my blocks.







Once I have finished this block …. I only have about  30 to 50 more blocks not to mention making right tilt blocks. 






5 thoughts on “TILTING BLOCKS TO THE LEFT ….

    1. I make TWO patches two inches wider and longer then the unit I want to tilt. I then cut on the diagonal of the tilting patch. It depends upon which way I want the tilt …. I have not tilted blocks for a long while but …..If you tilt from bottom left to top right tilts one way if you cut from top left to bottom right top it tilts the other way. I hope this helps….. Next time I tilt my blocks I will review this entire process.

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